Rabbitry
We breed Lion Head, Lion Lop, and Holland Lop rabbits.
Our goals are to produce show quality rabbits, we treat them all as our pets and want to share the love.
Take a look at our Gallery and submit your inquiry.
Price vary.
Thank you for choosing Hipster Hops Rabbitry!
We are a family rabbitry and your patronage is special to us.
Bringing Bunny Home/Grooming
our rabbit will need a place to sleep (cage), a hidey house (a cardboard box to hide in to feel secure), access to fresh water 24/7 and hay. Your rabbit will get a balanced nutrition with her pellets (unlimited access until 6 months old, and about ½ cup after 6 months of age). A litter box with wood pellets or non-clay/ non-clumping litter with hay.
Grooming: Rabbits do not require baths and should never be bathed.
Baths can be very stressful and cause shock. If your bunny is dirty you can use a wet wipe or a washcloth. Rabbits in general are very clean animals and will normally clean themselves like a cat when needed. Nail trims are necessary about once or twice a month with cat nail trimmers. Lionheads, lion lops, and Holland lops do require brushing once a week and when they are in a molt. During a molt your rabbit needs daily brushing to keep from digesting hair and causing a blockage. A regular slicker brush will work. Rabbits molt 2-4 times per year. Rabbits do not handle heat well and can heat stroke easily in hot weather. If keeping your bunny outside (we keep ours outdoors) make sure there is plenty of shade, air flow, and that they are kept out of any rain or extreme weather. If you think your bunny may be too hot, use a frozen water bottle, fan, and/or frozen tiles in their cage to help cool them down or bring indoors. Rabbits tend to do fine in colder weather, however, be wary of extremely cold temps causing frost bite. Please transition slowly to cold/hot weather as your rabbit has been in a climate controlled home.
Food :
gradually mix the transition feed in with the feed of your choice. This needs to happen gradually to not upset the rabbit’s tummy. An example of how you might do this:
Feed : We feed our adult rabbits about 1⁄4 cup of pellets twice a day for a total of ½ cup per day.
Bunnies under 6 months of age are free fed (bowls are kept full). Rabbits have super sensitive digestive systems. Your bunny has been eating Southern States Rabbit Feed Pellets 18% Protein that I purchase from R & D Cross in Brandywine, Maryland and mix in Producer’s Pride Rolled Oats for older rabbits. You do not have to use this feed, but you will need to slowly introduce the feed you plan to use. Changing feeds too quickly can cause serious stomach issues for your bunny. You will receive a transition baggie of feed. Transition using half old feed and half new for at least a week. I also recommend Oxbow or Oxbow Young Rabbit (for bunnies) which you can find at TSC or any pet store. Do not use any feeds that contain nuts, corn, or seeds! The better your feed, the better your rabbit! Make sure your feed bowl is heavy enough that your bunny cannot turn it over.
Water/Hay/Treats
Water : Your bunny will need fresh, clean, water at all times. Rabbits can
easily dehydrate. Your bunny is currently drinking out of a bowl but can also drink from a bottle. When using a bottle, make sure you check to make sure the water is flowing as the ball in the bottle can sometimes get stuck. I recommend RentACoop no-Drip drinking bottle with metal cup that can be purchased from Amazon.
Hay : Rabbits need hay in their diets for proper digestion. It also helps wear down teeth that continually grow. I use timothy grass hay although orchard, oat, or blended varieties are also good. Do not use alfalfa hay for rabbits older than 6 months, as it can be too rich for a rabbit’s system. They have enough alfalfa hay blended in with their pellet food. You can purchase hay at any pet store, TSC, or online. Be careful if purchasing from local farmers to make sure the hay has been stored correctly.
Treats : Bunnies under 6 months should not get treats. Do not feed pet
store treats since they can cause stomach upset and are not very nutritious. Treats should include fresh veggies, herbs, fruits, or cheerios and all in small amounts introduced one at a time in rabbits over 6 months of age (refer to last page for a list of safe treats). Kits should be checked daily for soft poop that might be stuck in their fur on their butts. If this happens, do not give pellets for a day—only hay and water.
Caging/General:
Your rabbit requires at least 24x24 caging. Rabbits love attention and they love play time. Please spend time with your bunny outside the cage for bonding and for exercise. Rabbits are curious but can also chew! Make sure to ALWAYS supervise your bunny outside the cage. They especially like chewing wires and cords! Dog exercise pens are good for play time as well. Our rabbits also LOVE doll houses and cardboard forts to explore. Cat scratch boards make great chew toys for rabbits.
Rabbits are also easy to litter train. Wire bottom or solid bottom cages are a personal preference. Wire bottom cages WILL NOT hurt your bunny. Wire bottoms keep all waste away from your rabbit’s feet. We have used both types of cages and prefer wire bottoms. We use a resting mat in each cage so that the rabbit can get off the wire if they want to.
When using solid plastic bottom cages, we like to use Kaytee Clean and Cozy bedding. It’s much cheaper on Amazon than in stores. Place a decent layer in the bottom of the cage. Scoop out and spot clean when dirty. Change out all the bedding at least once per week.
We will recommend a vet.
Litter training:
Litter training: Your bunny will choose a corner as a potty. Simply place your litter pan where your bunny goes, and in a week or two you will have your bunny potty trained! Placing some used litter in the pan helps the process along. We use equine pine wood pellets from TSC in our litter pans. We use vinegar and water to clean our litter pans and cages.
Health: Always make sure your bunny is eating and pooping. Any very loose/watery diarrhea or food strike (not eating) and more especially not drinking, is cause for immediate concern. Rabbits are good at hiding sickness or stress. Rabbits do not normally need a vet under most circumstances. They do not require shots or annual check ups. Most normal rabbit ailments are not serious and can be fixed with a call to your breeder or experienced rabbit person. If you do need a vet, make sure that you are using a rabbit savvy vet as many vet clinics do not specialize in rabbits as they are considered an exotic pet. We do not spay or neuter our rabbits since we are breeders and have show animals who must stay intact. When thinking of altering your rabbit be sure to talk to your vet as rabbits can have serious complications under anesthesia. If you only have one rabbit, there is no reason to alter unless your rabbit is displaying unwelcome behavior.
Safe treats for rabbits
(6mos and older)
● Carrots (sparingly)
● Celery
● Cilantro
● Clover
● Collard greens
● Dandelion leaves
● Dill
● Kale
● Lettuce – romaine or dark leaf (NO iceberg lettuce and no cabbage)
● Mint
● Mustard greens
● Parsley
● Water cress
● Strawberries
● Raspberries
● Bananas
● Pineapple
● Apples (no seeds)
● Papaya
After all the basics, relax and let your new pet get used to you. Allow them out of their cage while you are laying on the floor watching TV. Eventually, they will start to snuggle up to you, but be patient. Rabbits are naturally prey animals so they are afraid by nature. In time, they will get used to you and love you! Enrichment activities are fun---putting hay into a toilet paper roll is a great toy. Also, stacking cups for babies are great toys for your rabbit. There are many helpful resources on youtube and pinterest, and you can always reach out to use for feedback.
